Change of pace
Limp Lizard Lounge Bar & Grill
Location: 4628 Onondaga Blvd.
Price: Entrées from $7.29 to $19.99
Rate: 2.5 of 4 peppers
Considering the overwhelming local popularity of Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, opening the Limp Lizard Bar & Grill, another barbecue joint in Syracuse – with another reptilian name – is a risky venture.
Despite serving similar Southern-style cuisine, the difference between the almighty Dinosaur and the humble Lizard is essentially the difference between a T. rex and a salamander. Limp Lizard is not nearly as famous as its prehistoric counterpart, but it also has its advantages.
For example, when waiting for a table at the Dinosaur on a weekend, a hungry customer might as well pitch a tent outside the building, bring along a blanket and get comfortable. But on a Friday visit to Limp Lizard during peak dinnertime, the waitress led my party to a cozy booth within seconds of arriving.
Besides its similarity to that other Syracuse barbecue place, the most striking aspect about Limp Lizard is its appearance. The small location looks exactly like a Wendy’s – and for an understandable reason. The building was converted from the chain restaurant in the late 1990s.
Today, even with the Lizard’s dim lighting and eclectic décor (think a New Orleans roadhouse meets TGI Friday’s) the restaurant’s layout still screams Jr. Bacon Cheeseburger.
The good thing is that the Limp Lizard has an extremely friendly wait staff and an extensive menu. The full bar where the Wendy’s takeout counter once was also helps to quell the fast food vibe.
For an appetizer, the Stuffed Bread Stix ($6.29) were tasty enough. Soft breadsticks made like a pizza crust are filled with cheddar cheese and served with a zesty ranch sauce. However, despite the menu’s claim that jalapeños are included in the cheesy filling, there was no trace of spicy flavor in any of the six sticks. Either the jalapeños went out with the Wendy’s soda fountain, or the chef needs to edit the recipe.
The menu’s entrée choices are divided into eight unpleasant sounding sections, i.e., ‘Swamp Stuff’ and ‘Road Kill Pizzas.’ Happily, the catfish ($8.49, from the ‘Swamp’ section) was anything but swampy. Breaded with crunchy Cajun-style breadcrumbs then deep-fried to perfection, the generous portion of fish was tender, flaky and flavorful.
The same cannot be said for the inaptly titled ‘Kick Butt Carolina Pulled Pork Sandwich’ ($7.99). While the pork was juicy, the bland barbecue sauce left something to be desired, namely the ‘kick’ promised in the title.
Choosing two of the 13 side dish options to accompany an entrée is like playing Battleship: It’s hit or miss.
The sautéed collard greens definitely hit the mark. The tiny plastic cup it was served in was reminiscent of hospital food, but the tender greens with a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and bits of crunchy bacon were better than they look.
The french fries are also a good bet. The fries may not be the most exciting dish on the menu, but they were crispy and thick cut. There wouldn’t be regrets in ordering them.
Speaking of regret, steer clear of the macaroni and cheese. The Southern standby is more Velveeta than Soul Food, and the pasta was overcooked.
If barbecue is on the mind but dealing with big crowds and big hype at Dinosaur Bar-B-Que is not, Limp Lizard is a worthy option.
But just a word of advice: If planning to visit the Lizard for dinner on ‘Funky Friday,’ get there between 7 and 8 p.m. By about 9:30 p.m., the restaurant transforms into a roaring party complete with a live band and more boisterous baby boomers than can be counted on two hands. The change in atmosphere not only makes it difficult to converse with fellow diners, but it suddenly becomes a challenge to walk to the restroom without being pulled onto the dance floor for the chorus of ‘Feel Like Makin’ Love.’
Published on February 16, 2010 at 12:00 pm
