Mission barely accomplished
The Mission RestaurantLocation: 304 E. Onondaga St.Price: Entrees from $7.29 to $19.99Rate: 2 of 4 peppers
The Mission Restaurant, in Syracuse’s Columbus Circle, is one of those places that seem to be perpetually on everybody’s lips. Ask any Syracuse native about the restaurant, which specializes in South American and Mexican cuisine, and you’re bound to hear rave reviews about the tasty homemade food, distinctive atmosphere and massive margaritas.
That’s why it’s all the more perplexing that a recent dinner at the talked-about eatery was, at best, mediocre.
The building itself, located on East Onondaga Street, is unique. Built in the 1840s and designed as a Methodist church, the large building was later converted to a restaurant, which opened in 2000.
Inside, the décor is striking. The layout echoes The Mission’s roots, with tall columns framing stained glass windows throughout the cozy dining room. Turquoise-painted ceilings and walls bathe the entire restaurant in a calming blue light. Visually, The Mission is stunning.
The food, however, is a different story.
A recent Saturday dinner at The Mission began with two unimpressive appetizers. The tamales ($7), described on the menu as ‘delicate blue corn masa steamed inside corn husks served with sautéed crawfish succotash and topped with black truffle butter,’ were a study in false advertising. While the corn husks were on the plate, the crawfish, along with any trace of truffle butter, were not. Though the corn masa and the succotash carried a decent flavor, the waiter didn’t stick around long enough to explain the dish, leaving several unanswered questions: Are the corn husks edible? Are chips supposed to be dipped in this? Why not just order the nachos instead?
The second appetizer, the Queso Fundido ($5), might as well be called ‘confusion in a bowl.’ Thick, melted cheese, laced with bits of poblano chile pepper and chorizo, was literally served in a bowl by itself with a spoon. While the fondue-like blend would have made a suitable dip for fresh tortilla chips, the dish was suspiciously served solo. Even for a cheese lover, a full bowl of Monterey Jack is beyond overkill.
The meal didn’t get much better with the entrée course. The ravioli ($16), billed as ‘fire roasted’ and ‘vegetable stuffed,’ had an off-putting flavor and texture. The red pepper chile sauce tasted acidic and sharp, while the goat cheese only added an unpleasant pungency to the equation. The side dish of broccoli (the ‘Vegetable del Día’) was soggy and overcooked, reminiscent of the kind of thing a dog might be fed under the dinner table.
The carne asada ($22) was equally unappealing. Despite being topped with a flavorful blend of mushrooms and red onions, the steak itself was tough and dry. The mashed potatoes on the side were tasty enough, but like the soggy broccoli tasted like something that would accompany a meatloaf.
Luckily, dessert provided a welcome bright spot in the otherwise dismal meal. The bread pudding, made with chocolate, bananas and macadamia nuts was topped with rich whipped cream and chocolate sauce. The combination was pleasantly sweet but not overly so. The vanilla flan was also delicious. A generous portion of thick, creamy custard was served with a chilled blend of fresh tropical fruit, allowing the vanilla bean flavor to really shine.
So, two lessons can be found in the mostly forgettable meal at The Mission. One, when ordering at a Mexican restaurant, it’s probably best to stick to the menu’s burritos, tacos and enchiladas — the classics. And two, no matter what you’ve heard, a beautiful restaurant surrounded by hype can still manage to deliver only sub-par food.
Published on March 2, 2010 at 12:00 pm
