Nude colors, sheer fabric clear trends for spring
We’ve had almost three weeks to get settled in with what spring 2011 has to offer. From the looks of this season’s New York Fashion Week, pales and nudes are the palettes of choice, tapered wide-leg pants are the new go-to bottoms, and sheer fabric should be incorporated into every outfit.
These trends create a beautiful, minimalist look for Americans to embrace. The problem is these trends were repetitive among at least half of the designers this season, leading to an uneventful spring.
But this was not my main concern — my issues with NYFW lie within the collections that took concepts and themes overboard, namely Jeremy Scott and Zac Posen. Both designers turned their ready-to-wear collections into something impossible to wear.
Scott is notorious for his over-the-top themes and outspoken mind. I’ve always appreciated his distinct point of view, but his spring collection really missed the target for me. New York Magazine’s blog, ‘The Cut,’ described Scott’s inspiration as ‘more Zoolander or homeless Gaga.’ From the trash bag dresses to the raw meat designs, Scott’s collection was nothing close to glamour and style.
On the other side of the bad design spectrum, the theme of Posen’s younger line, Z Spoke, was overkill. Exaggerated fruit, ruffles, lace and cartoon faces dominated every single outfit that came down the runway. I applaud Posen for using bright colors and graphics instead of the usual whites and beiges — but Zac, there is a line, and you crossed it.
Even though NYFW didn’t leave me awestruck, there were a few shows that really stood out. Namely Jason Wu, Calvin Klein and Proenza Schouler, whose collections deserved all the blogging and fashion publication praise in the world. Credit goes where credit is earned.
Wu dominated the runway with trendsetting elegance. The young women portrayed in his designs are now growing up with the help of long, structured blazers, sheer blouses, truffled skirts and wide, well-tailored trousers. Not only did Wu incorporate the trends, he wasn’t afraid to add color and detailed texture, making his collection effortlessly beautiful.
Francisco Costa, creative director of Calvin Klein, has always been at the frontier of minimalism. Well-tailored clothing, mixed with beautiful fabric, was the key element to Calvin Klein’s spring collection. What was great about this collection was it showcased Costa’s knowledge of the feminine body. Every outfit fit brilliantly, and the fabric flowed naturally with the beat of each model’s step. Costa really proves clothes do not need to be flashy to be beautiful.
Proenza Schouler, a contemporary line by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, was definitely one of the highlights from all of NYFW.
‘We wanted it to be a little more polished,’ said McCollough to Style.com — and it was. The first half was elegant daywear, with tweed blazers and creamy dresses. The second half was edgy and bright, with sheer dresses and neon colors. A well-executed collection that proved the label’s longevity in the fashion industry.
Design, style and fit are what make or break the designers during NYFW. Whether the concepts are dramatic or not, it’s essential to stay true to a ready-to-wear collection, and that’s what Wu, Costa, McCollough and Hernandez did. While Scott and Posen didn’t exactly uphold that standard, they are still talented. Better luck next season.
Vicki Ho is a senior public relations major. Her column appears every Wednesday, and she can be reached at vho@syr.edu.
Published on September 28, 2010 at 12:00 pm




