Spice Rack : Trade off
When dining at an ethnic restaurant, it’s important to approach the experience with an open mind. Unfortunately, an open mind won’t make The Black Olive’s food taste any better, lower its unreasonable prices or improve the poor service.
Located in Armory Square for a little more than a year, The Black Olive specializes in Mediterranean cuisine. The menu is loaded with classic Greek dishes such as gyros, souvlaki and falafel, with some American standards such as burgers, turkey sandwiches and french fries sprinkled in.
On a recent weeknight visit to The Black Olive, it was surprising to see only two or three open tables in the medium-sized dining room. The room was populated by couples and a few large parties, but despite the crowd, there was no wait to be seated.
The décor in The Black Olive is rich and romantic. Tables and chairs are made from dark cherry wood, and crisp, white tablecloths add a formal, but not stuffy, feel. Rust-colored walls and dim lighting enhance the mellow vibe, along with Greek paintings and gold accents scattered throughout the restaurant.
The meal began with pikilia ($9), which was a delectable appetizer dish that was perhaps the highlight of the night. A large platter loaded with lots of warm pita triangles was paired with four different Greek spreads: classic hummus, tzatziki sauce, roasted pepper hummus and a garlic-potato mash. Each spread was singularly delicious, and some tasted even better when combined. The tzatziki was especially tasty, as the cool, cucumber-flavored yogurt was the perfect complement to the toasty pita bread.
However, the enjoyment of the scrumptious appetizer was slightly marred by the lack of plates, silverware and napkins. After trying to grab the server’s attention for a solid 10 minutes, she finally took notice and delivered the missing items.
For dinner, the Cyprus Shrimp ($14) was not nearly as appetizing as the menu’s description — and the price — suggested. A single skewer of spiced, grilled shrimp was served with a small helping of roasted vegetables. The shrimp’s char-grill flavor was intense, overpowering both the delicate taste of the shrimp and the spices. The vegetable mixture, which included potatoes, yellow squash, carrots and broccoli, was well flavored, but the soggy texture made the side dish unappealing overall.
One of the quirkiest options on the menu is the Athena Burger ($7.50), a sandwich topped with a fried egg and bacon and served with a side of orzo pasta. While the burger was tasty enough and the breakfast-friendly additions made for an interesting flavor, the portion size belonged on the kid’s menu. Order this for dinner and plan to stop at a nearby pizza joint afterward, as you’ll probably still be hungry.
The burger’s side dish didn’t help the situation. The only detectable flavors in the bland orzo were butter and salt. To make matters worse, the flavorless pasta was served lukewarm.
Dessert, thankfully, provided another bright spot in the meal. Delicious homemade chocolate chip cheesecake, topped with fresh whipped cream, made the dinner’s not-so-appealing memories fade fast.
Overall, the experience at The Black Olive was mixed. Lows like the soggy vegetables and absentee silverware were balanced by Greek peaks like the yummy Pikilia and decadent cheesecake. If you can handle the ups and downs, The Black Olive is worth going Greek for.
Published on April 19, 2010 at 12:00 pm
